Japan is a destination deeply rooted in cultural heritage and authentic traditions that have sustained through the centuries. On my immersive two-week itinerary through the main island of Honshu, I delved into this unique nation’s spiritual heart, its warm and inviting people revealing to me some of Japan’s most cherished traditions and soul-stirring scenery.
From the serenity of traditional Japanese inns and calm-inducing koi ponds to the enchantment of its forested mountain landscapes and captivating coastal scenery – this deeply evocative, off-the-beaten-track journey through the soul of Japan unveiled the essence of one of the world’s most spellbinding destinations.
Day 1: Arrival in Wakayama & Mystical Mount Koya (Koyasan)
After landing at Kansai International Airport in Osaka, I made my way toward Koyasan, nestled high in the forested mountains of Wakayama. The road wound through misty hills, and I could already feel the quiet, sacred energy that makes this region so revered.
Lunch was a gentle introduction to traditional temple cuisine at Kadohama Goma-Tofu Restaurant, where every dish was plant-based and elegantly simple - a reflection of Buddhist mindfulness.
The first of many delicious Japanese lunches, dining at Kadohama Goma-Tofu Restaurant in Koyasan
I visited the enchanting Eko-in Temple, one of Koyasan’s oldest temples, founded over 1,100 years ago, that has been converted into a traditional ryokan-style accommodation. Staying in a shukubō (temple lodging) is unlike any hotel experience, with tatami mats, paper sliding doors and an invitation to evening meditation all part of the package.
As dusk fell, I joined a guided tour of Okunoin, Japan’s largest and most sacred cemetery. Led by a Buddhist monk, the walk through the lantern-lit, cedar-lined paths felt otherworldly. The monk spoke of Kobo Daishi, the founder of Shingon Buddhism, and I found myself moved by the deep reverence that still pulses through this place.
Okunoin Cemetery, Mount Koya (Koyasan), Wakayama, Japan
Dinner and rest awaited at Ichijō-in Temple - another ryokan within a Buddhist temple that is home to a soothing Zen garden, serene koi ponds and a traditional Japanese garden - where I drifted off to the sound of the wind rustling through the temple gardens.
My traditional Japanese room at Ichijo-in Temple
A local Buddhist monk
Accommodation in a traditional Japanese ryoken
Day 2: From Koyasan to Nara
The next morning, I left the mountain serenity of Koyasan and headed toward Nara Prefecture, Japan’s first permanent capital and a cradle of its deeply rooted culture.
My first stop included lunch and an exploration of Ubusuna-no-Sato Tomimoto, a refined two-suite inn in Ando, built on the birthplace of ceramic master Tomimoto Kenkichi. Between sips of tea and the scent of freshly fired clay, I felt truly immersed in an artist’s world.
Lunch at Ubusuna-no-Sato Tomimoto, a refined inn in Ando
Then, I visited Hōryū-ji Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the world’s oldest wooden structures. Standing before its pagoda, I was awestruck by the fact that it has survived since the 7th century.
The 7th-century and UNESCO-listed Hōryū-ji Temple
By evening, I arrived in Nara City. The gentle deer of Nara Park greeted me as I strolled beneath rustling leaves toward Noborioji Hotel, a small luxury retreat blending modern elegance with the warmth of natural wood and soft lighting.
Dinner at this tranquil hotel’s French-inspired restaurant, Le Bois, was a perfect close to a day steeped in culture and calm.
Day 3: Ancient Landscapes of Asuka
Morning began with a visit to Tōdai-ji Temple, home of the bronze-built Great Buddha.
Tōdai-ji Temple
Next came Asuka, a region where Japan’s early civilisation first took shape. I explored Ishibutai Tumulus, a colossal stone tomb dating back to the 7th century, and later climbed to Amakashino-Oka Viewpoint for sweeping views of the countryside, categorised by resplendent rice fields, scattered shrines and the resonating thrum of cicadas.
That evening, I stayed at Branchera Ishibutai Terrace, a modern boutique hotel surrounded by ancient ruins. Its clean, minimalist design provided the perfect contrast to the deep history surrounding it.
Day 4: Cycling Through Asuka, Edo Streets & Plant-Based Discoveries in Mie
The morning began with a gentle e-bike ride through Asuka Village, pedalling past quiet farmhouses, terraced rice fields and stone Buddhas hidden among the whispering trees.
A well-earned rest after exploring the serene landscapes of Asuka
I then travelled to Mie Prefecture, stopping at Sekijuku, a beautifully preserved Edo-period post town along the old Nakasendō route. Wandering its narrow lanes felt like stepping into the world of a bygone era.
Lunch was a revelation at Hinome Kameyama, where Chef Tomohiro crafts entirely plant-based dishes that taste like poetry - pure, seasonal and full of heart.
My delicious plant-based meal at Hinome Kameyama
Later, I took part in an Ise Katagami workshop, carving delicate stencils and dyeing patterns onto fabric. The patience and dedication to the art that was required gave me a new appreciation for Japanese craftsmanship.
My stay that night was at VISON Hotel Taki, a nice hotel within the VISON complex. With its blend of natural design, art and culinary experiences, it was the perfect mix of luxury and inspiration, its remote setting thirty minutes away from the nearest town creating a sense of disconnection and harmony with the natural surroundings.
Day 5: Spiritual Shores of Ise-Shima
After a morning stroll and shopping spree at VISON’s local markets, I set out for Ise-Shima, a coastal paradise known for its sacred shrines and pearl-diving heritage.
In Ise City, I explored Nipponia Ise Kawasaki Hotel, a decentralised hotel spread across restored merchant houses. Lunch at Kishin offered another beautiful plant-based meal, before visiting the ISEKADO Brewery, which has roots stretching back 450 years.
Nipponia Ise Kawasaki Hotel in Ise City
By evening, I arrived at the legendary Shima Kanko Hotel, overlooking Ago Bay. This elegant resort, once the site of the G7 Summit, felt like a dream: refined rooms, calm sea views and dinner that celebrated the ocean’s bounty.
The view of Ago Bay from the Shima Kanko Hotel
Day 6: Ama Divers & the Rhythms of the Ocean
I began the day at COVA KAKUDA, a hidden luxury retreat with just four villas tucked along the bay. Built on the site of an old pearl farm, its philosophy - Satoumi, a concept promoting harmony between people and the sea - is reflected in every detail.
The COVA KAKUDA hotel, located on the tranquil shores of Ago Bay
From there, I met the remarkable Ama Divers, women who have spent generations free diving for pearls and shellfish. Sharing a meal of freshly grilled seafood with them was one of the most authentic, moving experiences of my trip.
Meeting the local Ama Divers was one of the most authentic and moving experiences of the trip
That night’s stay at Uminochou Ryokan offered the perfect retreat — a traditional inn with ocean views, open-air baths and exquisite kaiseki cuisine.
There’s something deeply spiritual about Japan’s Kii Peninsula – a place where mountains meet the sea and ancient temples stand as testaments to devotion and time-enduring tradition. My week-long journey through Wakayama, Nara and Mie felt like stepping into another rhythm of life - one where nature, culture and spirituality are seamlessly intertwined.
Uminochou Ryokan
Day 7: Ise Jingu & Journey to Tokyo
On my final morning, I visited Ise Jingu, one of Japan’s most sacred Shinto shrines. Walking beneath ancient cedar trees toward the Naiku (Inner Shrine), I felt the profound simplicity of Shinto’s harmony with nature. Just outside, Oharaimachi street buzzed with charm, lined with wooden storefronts, sweet shops and the alluring aroma of roasted mochi.
After a delicious local lunch, I made my way to Nagoya Station to catch the lightning-fast Shinkansen bullet train service to Tokyo, which whizzed past vast green fields and rolling mountainsides on its approach to Japan’s innovative capital.
Japan's iconic Shinkansen 'Bullet Train' riding past the snow-capped peak of Mt. Fuji
As the train pulled into Tokyo Station in the evening, I felt the unmistakable buzz of this iconic city. Tokyo is a sprawling metropolis that dazzles with its balance of old and new: it’s a place where ornate, ancient shrines share the skyline with soaring, billboard-coated skyscrapers and neon-drenched alleyways.
The neon nights of Tokyo
I checked into the Super Hotel Premier Tokyo Station Yaesu-Chuoguchi, just steps from the station. The rooms were small and quaint (only 11 square meters!) but thoughtfully designed, maximising every inch of space in the true Japanese minimalist fashion. After a long day of travelling, I revelled in the hotel’s eco-friendly touches, the relaxing natural hot spring bath and a recuperative night’s sleep in the heart of the city.
Day 8: Exploring Shibuya & Shinjuku
My full day in Tokyo was dedicated to two of its most dynamic districts: Shibuya and Shinjuku. I began at the legendary Shibuya Crossing, where hundreds of people move in synchronised chaos every time the light changes. From there, I ducked into bustling backstreets lined with stylish cafés, independent boutiques and the ever-evolving world of Tokyo fashion.
Nature standing in harmony with the city at Tokyo's Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden
By afternoon, I was in Shinjuku, surrounded by towering skyscrapers and vivid neon signs. Yet just a short walk away, Shinjuku Gyoen Garden offered an oasis of calm - a lush landscape of Japanese, English, and French gardens. Sitting by the pond, watching colourful koi ripple through the water, it felt like a world away from the neon lights just beyond the trees.
It is this contrast, between serenity and stimulation, that makes Tokyo so magical.
Day 9: Into the Mountains - From Tokyo to Niigata
The next morning, I boarded the Shinkansen for Echigo Yuzawa, a picturesque mountain town in Niigata Prefecture. The journey took approximately two hours, but the scenery shifted dramatically from Tokyo’s steel-wrapped skyline to rolling green mountains standing grand and sleepy amid the crisp alpine air.
At Ishiuchi Maruyama Ski Resort, I took in panoramic views from the observation deck, beyond which lush slopes transform into powdery wonderlands in winter. Lunch was a farm-to-table meal at FARM FRONT SEKINOEN, where fresh local ingredients please the palate.
The mountain-valley landscape of Echigo Yuzawa
Afterward, I visited two charming boutique properties - ryugon and Satoyama Jyujo – that beautifully blend modern design with traditional architecture. In the evening, I joined a short yet insightful walking tour before sitting down to a refined dinner at Satoyama Jyujo, the peaceful mountain scenery forming a relaxing backdrop.
Satoyama Jyujo
Day 10: Satoyama & Sake
The following day, I explored Niigata’s fabled countryside. The Gamo Rice Terraces were breathtaking, comprising tiered green fields that reflect the morning sun like a sheet of mirrors. I joined a Satoyama Walking Tour through Gimei and Gamou, learning about the harmonious way locals live with the land.
The beautiful Gamo Rice Terraces in the Niigata countryside
Lunch was at Shibui Café, where I met Karl Bengs, a German architect dedicated to restoring Japan’s heritage homes; his passion for preserving rural architecture was incredibly inspiring.
In the afternoon, I toured the Shirataki Brewery, where I tried to make my own sake by blending different flavours - a fascinating and fragrant experience! That evening, I checked into Tamakiya, a cosy ryokan where traditional hospitality combined with gourmet dining to stunning effect.
The sumptuous cuisine at Tamakiya
Day 11: Journey to Sado Island
After a morning visit to Pier Bandai - Niigata’s lively seafood market where I glimpsed snippets of local life - I boarded the ferry bound for Sado Island. The two-and-a-half-hour crossing was calm, with sweeping sea views for the duration.
A gull following the ferry to Sado Island
Upon arrival in Ryotsu Port, I travelled to Nipponia, a restored heritage accommodation that blends historical charm with all the hallmarks of modern comfort. After checking in, I joined a dinner outing at a local izakaya (an informal Japanese pub-style eatery) in Aikawa where laughter, sake and exquisite dishes flowed freely.
Nipponia hotel on Sado Island
Day 12: Sado Island
My twelfth day in Japan began with a peaceful Zen meditation session at Nipponia - a perfect reset before diving into Sado’s history.
At the Sado Gold Mine, I joined a guided “Prospector Tour,” exploring tunnels that were once filled with hopeful gold miners centuries ago. Lunch was a hearty bowl of Sado Udon at Aoi before heading to Shukunegi, a historic village of wooden houses built by shipwrights.
Miner models at the now defunct Sado Gold Mine
By late afternoon, I arrived at AZUMA, a beautiful seaside retreat. Watching the sun set over the Sea of Japan while enjoying a fresh local dinner was undoubtedly one of the most peaceful moments of the entire trip.
Day 13: Return to Tokyo
My final day on Sado began with a scenic drive to Oosado, followed by lunch at caMoco Café, which overlooks the tranquil waters of Lake Kamo. It was then time to board the jetfoil back to Niigata.
caMoco Café, overlooking Lake Kamo
By evening, I was back in Tokyo and Haneda Airport, ready to return home overwhelmed by my awe for Japan and its unbelievable richness.
My incredible two-week journey through the island of Honshu had revealed to me the stunning cultural tapestry of one of the world's most distinct destinations, and I left with a renewed appreciation of the enchanting jewel of a country that is Japan.
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